We can make any California Carbureted Jeep into a Smog Legal Fuel Injected Jeep from 1972 to 1991 year models. V-8 ,304 cubic inch, or Straight 6, 258 cubic inch
We have done many of them and your welcome to call on any customer who has had it done. They all love it. You can go from sea level to 10,000 feet and the computer will compensate for the altitude. You can take your Jeep Vertical and as long as the pick up tube is in the tank, that thing will keep running smooth, elevation or angle will no longer give you trouble.
And if you have a car that don't have to conform to Smog Check Standards, then we can put on any type of Fuel Injection on any Old car, Truck that you have. Fuel Injection is more trouble free than carburetors and if you live in a cold area, there is nothing worse than a car that won't idle or run when its cold. I can have chips burned to conform to your car or we can install a laptop programmable fuel injection set up. Give me a call.
1989 Sahara Fuel Injection Conversion
Here are the Before pictures. These are Harder to do than the 81's. The 81's had less sensors and the computer was wired separately from the main engine harness. This 1989 has the engine wiring harness (alternator, starter, temp, oil, etc.) wired with the PCM wiring. You have to open the loom up and cut out the unneeded old PCM wiring and DO NOT DISTURB the engine loom wiring. A factory wiring diagram helps a lot.
After
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1977 Super Sport El Camino 350 Rebuild
In the next few months after the engine is running and broken in I will add a Wet carburetor plate Nitrous system or a ported nitrous system. If your looking for Nitrous for your Car, Truck, Quad, Sled, or Leaf Blower give me call. If your interested the El Camino will be for sale in the next 6 months.
Here
is one of the cylinder heads that Steve and Pat at Decker
Machine did for me. Nice job. Bigger exhaust valves so the engine will
breath better. Teflon coated piston skirts. 300 horse 327 cam. Steve figured
out the compression ratio to 9:1 for pump gas and pass the smog check.
Here
is a picture of the pick up screen I found in the bottom of the pan of the
used engine I got with the car. It was
supposed to be a good used 350, 4 bolt main. I decided to rebuild the
original engine so I needed the pan off of this one. Found the oil pump pick
up screen was in the bottom of the pan completely destroyed. The pick up
screens are pressed in. This one came loose.
Installed
a new pick up screen, high volume Melling oil pump. Tack welded the screen
so it won't come loose this time.
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Air Fuel Ratio Gauge For Snowmobiles
To
my left here is an Air Fuel Ratio Gauge. This gets confusing so pay
attention, there are 2 types of oxygen sensors but they both use gauge
displays that are called air/fuel ratio gauges. The difference is they use
different types of Oxygen sensors. One is called a narrow band (what I call
an Oxygen Sensor, we never called them narrow bands!) and the other is
called a Wideband that was released in around 1999, and those are know in
the business as Air Fuel Ratio sensors. From here on out I will refer to
them as Oxygen Sensor and Air Fuel Ratio Sensors. An Oxygen Sensor and a Air
Fuel Ratio Sensor reads the amount of Oxygen in an Exhaust system. They will
not start working until they reach 600 degrees Fahrenheit. Oxygen sensors
are basically a Voltage Generator. They work in the milli-volt category. Low
voltage is a lean exhaust, (.100-.200 milli-volts) High voltage is a rich
exhaust (.800-.900 milli-volts) .500 to .600 milli-volts would be the ideal
14;1 air fuel ratio. You need at least a digital volt ohm meter to read it.
Early Oxygen sensors were just single wire sensors. Later ones (in the
1990's) had heaters in them which were 3 wire sensors, and some have 4
wires, 2 for the heater, 1 for the sensor signal and 1 wire was sensor
ground to computer. Early 1 wire sensors used the engine ground instead of a
computer sensor ground. Air Fuel Ratio sensors work the same but different,
read on below.
Air Fuel Ratio Sensors are equipped with a heater to keep them working when the engine idles for long periods of time and for cold start up, same as Oxygen sensors. You can find A/F sensors in late model Toyota's and Honda's. Instead of just measuring the oxygen content in the exhaust, they measure the the oxygen content in the exhaust and measure the atmosphere air. They are used for engine feed back controls, so when your doing 55 mph, on flat ground and all engine parameters are in perfect harmony, the engine computer will lean the engine out beyond 14:7 to 1 fuel ratio, and the way that it knows what the ratio is, is by the air fuel sensor sending the data of the exhaust oxygen compared to the outside air oxygen, as soon as you give the car more throttle/load condition, the computer at a blink of an eye will default back to the 14:1 fuel ratio, the A/F ratio sensors can compare exhaust to atmosphere air of up to 22:0 to 1 air fuel ratio. This is flippin lean, how else do you think they get 31 miles per gallon. To me wideband Sensors on snowmobiles are not needed. Reasons being;
1. Wideband sensors Typically have 5 wires. 2 for the heater and 3 for the sensor, needs a micro computer to run, needs 12 volts, a gauge, and lots of wiring and a sensor that will cost around $80 bucks that will get contaminated with 2 stroke oil. They Have to be caliberated at every start up, altitude change or weather change. Its not hard to do, but people don't realize it.
2. They need a micro computer to display the fuel mixture on a gauge, the computer reads current draw. The micro computer applies 12 volts to 2 of the 3 wires (I believe the 3rd wire is a ground) and the computer will calculate amperage draw which compares atmosphere air to inside the exhaust air and then displays the air mixture on the gauge via the micro computer. In a regular car, the sensor just tells the ECM what the mixture is in the exhaust compared to the outside air and then the computer makes what needed fuel adjustments required. You cannot test an Air Fuel Ratio Sensor, you can only read the sensor from a micro computer data. An Oxygen sensor you can test with any digital volt meter that will read DC milli-volts
3. When you see them advertised, they show the gauge reading up to 22:0 to1 air fuel ratio, If you run your 2 stroke sled at 22:0 to 1, first off, I doubt it would run, and if it did, it would probably burn down a piston is my guess. So to me you wouldn't need anything that goes that lean.
4. Snowmobiles don't have Feedback fuel controls. We are not looking at fuel economy here, we are trying to get the most HP out of an engine without burning it down.
5. On the upside, A/F sensor systems are accurate within 1%. Not bad, but I can do without.
A regular 02 (oxygen) sensor is much more simplified, inexpensive, and practical in my opinion. If you want an air fuel ratio gauge for your snowmobile they cost $135.00 email me at paul@allautosmog.com or call me at 559-642-6936
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1957 Ford Wagon
This nightmare has been going on for around 4
years now. I bought a 1957 wagon from Gene Miller. It had a 6 cylinder and
automatic in it. I purchased a 1990 Lincoln Town Car from an Impound yard
that has the 5.0 liter sequential fuel injected engine with 4 speed
automatic transmission. I took everything off of this car and its all
sitting in storage. As you can see, the engine is in and the transmission is
in. I had to make mounts for the engine and trans, weld them in, etc. A 1957
Ford never had this drive train in it, and there isn't a manual anywhere to
tell you how to do it. It took a lot of time and energy to figure out how to
get it in there. For a large car, there really wasn't that much room to make
everything fit. First, the 1990 Lincoln is a rear dump oil pan, I had to put
a front dump pan and pick up on it to even fit in the car. I wanted to keep
the car a Ford, I didn't want a Chevy engine in a Ford car. It is in a way
easier to weld on a Chevy front clip and have a 350 with disc brakes, engine
mounts, and front end, but I didn't want to hack the front end up. What else
you can't see is all the work on the front end, there are new front spindles
on it for Disc brakes. I have a complete set up in storage, another thing no
one notices.